Ancient Japanese Clothing

Japanese ancient clothing was majorly influenced by China. Vigorous trade between Japan and its continental neighbors brought in Chinese dresses and styles into Japan during the Han Dynasty. The Tang styles and Sui dynasty from China influenced clothing in Japan while it was developing from a collection of loose clans to an Empire. All robes in Japan were to be worn from left to right just like the Chinese. Right to left was considered barbaric in China and the ‘left over right’ became the conventional rule of wearing a Kimono ever since.

During the Heian period (894 specifically), Chinese influence began dying out and Chinese characters began being abbreviated in Japanese script. The Heian court was taken to sensitivity of art and subtle beauty and wardrobe became much more detailed. Colors, combinations and fabric textures changed and separated themselves from Chinese influence.

Ancient Chinese clothing for women was the Cheongsam which was a one piece suit consisting of a high neck with a closed collar and short or medium sleeves. The fitted waist and slits on the sides complimented women’s figures well. The tunic suit dominated ancient Chinese clothing, known as the ‘Zhongshan suit’, had a turned down collar and 4 pockets. Animal print embroidery patches were used during the Ming and Qing dynasty. Beautiful in appearance and very intricate, these embroideries also symbolized the ranks of officers who wore them.

Both the ancient Chinese clothing and ancient Japanese clothing evolved over the centuries and during different dynasties ruled. The major differences in the designs and embroideries were that while the ancient Chinese clothing symbolized religion and auspicious symbolism; the ancient Japanese clothing was more colorful and used floral patterns without any symbolic meanings. Both the clothing styles however distinguished in social ranking, age, sex and other aspects. Clothes of a wearer explained their social status or their marital status where women were concerned.

Ancient Japanese clothing is often mistaken as the ‘Kimono’. The word kimono simply means ‘thing to wear’ and it is a modern term coined when Japan was pressurized to name a national costume. Though what is call a Kimono today is somewhat similar the clothing of ancient Japan. The long, narrow garment worn now tied with an Obi, or a Sash around the waist, was a look achieved around the Edo period (17th to 19th century).

Japan was a collection of loosely tied clans and while Japan aspired to become an Empire, it had increased trade with China. With the advent of trade, came Chinese dress materials and style of clothing. Ti will hence be safe to assume that ancient Japanese clothing was largely influenced by ancient Chinese clothing.

Since the Japanese people don’t wear footwear inside their homes, tabi is still worn. These are split –toe socks woven out of non-stretch materials with thick soles. Clogs have been worn for centuries in ancient Japan and were known as Geta. These were made of wood with two straps and were unisexual. Zori was footwear made of softer materials like straw and fabric with a flat sole.

Ancient Japanese clothes, culture and footwear are slowly regaining their popularity with the western world. There is an honest curiosity in knowing more, wearing kimonos or using silk fabrics with beautiful floral prints from the ‘land of the rising sun’.

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Japanese history includes alternating periods of isolation and revolutionary influences from the rest of the world. As early as the Jomon period from about 14000BC to 300 BC, Japan had a hunter-gatherer lifestyle; wooden stilt houses, pit dwelling, and agriculture. Weaving was still unknown and the ancient Japanese clothing consisted of fur. However, some of the world’s oldest pottery is found in Japan, along with daggers, jade, combs made form shell and clay figures.

The period thereafter to 250 BC saw the influx of new practices like weaving, rice sowing, iron and bronze making influenced by china and Korea. Chinese travelers describe the men ‘with braided hair, tattooing and women with large, single-piece clothing.’ Initially ancient Japanese clothing consisted of single piece clothing. The ancient and classical Japan begins from the middle of the 3rd century to 710. An advanced agricultural and militaristic culture defines this period. By 645, Japan rapidly adopted Chinese practices and reorganized its penal code.

Another reason for the ancient Kimono fading out to modern Japanese clothing is the ever growing popularity of man-made fabrics. From 1975 to 1988, silk production fell by 39percent and since kimonos are made of silk, the kimono is losing popularity as an everyday wear. A number of stereotypes have also stopped the Kimono from making a comeback. Younger women lack assistance in buying a Kimono; what colors should they buy and even where to buy them is an unanswered question for a large percentage. It is also a common thought that they are hard to wear alone and that a Kimono is only meant for special occasions. The thought that they are expensive also discourages many young potential buyers.

A total westernization will never happen owing to Japan’s rich culture but a healthy mix of western and traditional can be seen everyday on the streets of Tokyo and many other cities and towns. A Nike t-shirt over a skirt and a Geta is not an uncommon sight; the only saddening part may perhaps be the downhill journey of the traditional Kimono in the modern Japanese clothing.

The traditional Kimono however is relegated as a ceremonial dress in modern Japan. The kimono is now worn mostly only during the New Year or a wedding.

Fashion shows in Japan bring together both these worlds by showcasing suits which are draped like kimonos. Geta which was the traditional footwear in Japan shows its traces in modern day platform shoes. Fashion streets of Tokyo display brightly colored socks which are a combination of the traditional tabi with western colors. Tabi is the traditional padded socks worn at home since the Japanese remain bare foot in their houses.

Traces of the Sashiko, the traditional quilted coat can also be seen in modern coats. So, if you are in Tokyo, you may see a fine blend of the ancient Japanese and the western in the youth of modern Japan. Kimonos and platform shoes under them with a western hair style – this is what many young Japanese people can be seen attired in. however, modern Japanese clothing can be best described as largely western with elements from Japanese clothing incorporated.